Thank you for purchasing my Russian Filigree Powdered Solder!
Here are some helpful tips and information to get the best results with my product.
![Storms of Juno, Russian filigree cuff bracelet by Victoria Lansford](https://i0.wp.com/victorialansford.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Victoria-Lansford-Storms-of-Junoside-pvc300.jpg?resize=1024%2C731)
Russian Filigree Powdered Solder is made with the same traditional recipe from antiquity that Victoria Lansford demonstrates in the video, Metal Techniques of Bronze Age Masters: Russian Filigree, however this pre-made solder already has flux mixed in it. Because Russian Filigree Powdered Solder is a finer powder than can be filed from the traditionally alloyed ingot, much less is needed to accomplish the same job.
Russian Filigree Powdered Solder works on Russian filigree with sterling frames and fine silver filler wires, 18K gold frames and fine silver filler wires, and Argentium silver frames and filler wires. It is made specifically for Russian filigree, also known as filigrana or open back filigree. It can be used for other types of projects where small tack joints with powdered solder would be appropriate.
This solder flows like an easy solder, but, because much of the zinc burns off once it has flowed, in subsequent rounds of soldering it behaves like a medium solder. This feature allows the same solder to be used in multiple rounds of soldering on tiny wires without the risk of collapse in previously soldered areas.
Stages of Flow for Filigree Powdered Solder During Soldering
The heat has begun to make the flux look glassy, and the solder is grainy and has not yet flowed. Further heating causes the solder to begin seeping into the connection points, but the solder is still grainy and has not yet flowed Further heating causes the solder to begin seeping into the connection points, but the solder is still grainy and has not yet flowed The solder has fully flowed and joined the filler wires to each other and to the frame wire.
Victoria Demos How to Use Russian Filigree Powdered Solder
Russian Filigree Powdered Solder Essential Instructions & Tips
Steps (see below for questions and trouble shooting)
Warning: This product contains silver, bronze, copper, zinc, and borax. Harmful if swallowed or inhaled. Let contents settle before opening to prevent metal dust becoming airborne. May cause skin irritation. SDS available upon request.
1. Turn on your ventilation system.
2. Place filigree face down on a compressed charcoal block.
3. Carefully open the jar. (Do not shake.)
4. Scoop a small amount of the powdered solder into the jar lid.
5. Use an eye dropper or small tipped squeeze bottle to drop several drops of distilled water in the lid with the powder. Distilled water is a must!!! (Bottled or tap water may cause problems due to chemicals or minerals in the water.) Stir the distilled water together with the powder. The ideal consistency is more like icing for a cupcake and less like glaze for a doughnut. Water turns the powdered solder a slightly darker color, which is normal. (See Common Questions and Troubleshooting for more information on mixing.)
6. Gently paint the solder onto the filigree at each point to be soldered. Cheap synthetic brushes work best. Better brushes may cause the solder to stick to the brush and not adhere to the filigree.
7. Let the piece dry for 5 minutes to prevent the moisture from causing the solder to boil or make the wires shift.
8. Solder by heating the whole piece first with a “corona” type flame, then concentrate the heat on the joints. See below for much more information on soldering filigree. Always use adequate ventilation!
9. Pickle.
10. Return unused powdered solder in the jar lid to the container. To reconstitute, add more distilled water. Dried solder may be remixed indefinitely.
11. If for any reason you need to re-flow a section of filigree where the solder has already flowed and the piece has been pickled, then you will need to flux that area with paste flux to help the solder re-flow.
Common Questions and Troubleshooting
Mixing the solder and water shouldn’t feel like a frustrating chemistry experiment. You really can’t mess up the solder or mix it “wrong.” The sole purpose of the water is to make the powder stick to your filigree. This measurement must be visual rather than mathematical. By the time your piece comes out of the pickle, your solder will have dried slightly and likely require another drop or so of water, making an exact ratio of water to powder impossible to determine. The rate it dries out will vary in different climates. Every time you apply more solder, you will likely need to add another drop or so of water first to get it “spreadable” again.
Think of it less like chemistry and more like adding water to watercolors.
Too much water, and there won’t be enough solder deposited on your piece. Too little water, and the solder will blob and stay on the brush. To get the hang of the proportions, mix a small amount on one side of the lid and then practice spreading it on an empty area of the lid. If the mixture pools like gray/green tea, then there is too much water. If it clumps like wet sand or won’t come off the brush, add more water. With a little practice, you will get the hang of mixing!
Tips for Creating Filigree
Frame Tips:
- Make sure your frame sits flat on the steel block
- Remove any blobs of solder that may have pooled in the corners of your frame
- Make sure your frame wires are straight and not twisted or tilted. This is extremely important when working with square frame wire.
Frame Tips:
- Make sure your frame sits flat on the steel block
- Remove any blobs of solder that may have pooled in the corners of your frame
- Make sure your frame wires are straight and not twisted or tilted. This is extremely important when working with square frame wire.
Save Time with Ready-to-Use Filigree Wire
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Filigree Frame Wire$11.00 – $14.00
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Filigree Fine Silver Filler Wire$18.00 – $36.00
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Filigree Wire Example Card$30.00